Lake Kindyktykul

Climbing up above the lake (photo by A. Rhodes)

Lake Kindyktykul (“Kin-dik-tik-kool”) borders Chikhachev Ridge in southeastern Altai and is home to over 20 species of endangered birds.

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Farewell, Teletskoye

The morning started off overcast, but settled on partly sunny during breakfast. Seven of us set out from Yailyu for a six-kilometer hike to the top of the nearest ridge. We were accompanied by two rangers, one armed with a rifle to protect us from bears. Yailyu villagers and zapovednik staff have a complicated relationship…

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Artybash onto Lake Teletskoye

EDITORIAL NOTE: Much has changed since this journal piece was published in 2010 – most importantly, there has been significant development on the southwestern and northeastern sides of the lake. I can hardly believe that this trip is going by so quickly! Must be all the sleep I’m getting now that the jet lag has…

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Chemal and onward

Despite attempts by a shady cab driver to take advantage of us, we paid a fair price for a hair-raisingly fast taxi ride to Chemal, about an hour from Gorno-Altaisk. Chemal is, as always, stunningly beautiful but is more and more built up. It really does look like Switzerland, albeit with smaller mountains. It has…

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